A couple of weeks ago, my shopping buddy MG emailed to see
if I wanted to go to Bahrain that weekend. I said sure. I didn’t really need
anything except some bacon but an outing sounded like a fine idea. The next day, my dog
friend PM emailed to see if I wanted to go to Bahrain with her and a friend
that weekend. I said, sounds great, perhaps we can all go together! Our
respective errands weren’t that different.
PM wasn’t sure that her friend’s car would hold four people
plus all the stuff she planned to buy in Bahrain. I said, well, that’s not a
problem, we can take my car, plenty of room for all.
No, that wouldn’t work, she told me. She had heard that I
had to have a letter from Saudi Government Affairs in order to let someone
drive my car. It wasn’t an issue of my being a woman but more an issue
that the driver wasn’t the same person that the car was registered to. This
didn’t make any sense since lots of Saudis have drivers that drive their (the
Saudis’) cars. But the Magic Kingdom is also the logic-free zone. It was entirely possible that she was right. Of course, there had been no official announcement of such a policy change but around here that means nothing. Rules are changed arbitrarily and often with little to no announcement. I had heard nothing about this from my other "rumor" sources. But still, there was definitely a non-zero chance that this was a new rule that we had to navigate.
So I hied off to Al Midra, a new Aramco office building
which contains HR, Personnel, Payroll, and Government Affairs.
This was not a casual errand because Al Midra is located on the far western
edge of Dhahran and is accessed only by an amazingly convoluted set of roads. Getting there is just the first step. You then must find a parking place that is
hopefully within half a mile of the building. The parking lots are designed in
a most fiendish way with hidden entrances, curbs that block lateral access from
one part of a lot to another, and a general lack of signage. It can take more
than half an hour to drive three miles, park, and walk to the building.
The main room for the HR services is a large bullpen
ringed with counters. It often isn’t clear which counter you need to get to;
even if you can clearly state your business, there is nobody to ask for advice.
Sometimes there is a machine dispensing numbered paper tickets, sometimes there
isn’t, and sometimes the counter you need to get to isn’t using those
particular tickets but some other utterly impenetrable system to determine who
is next. Queuing would be far too easy and logical.
I made my way to the right counter only to confront a fully
veiled Saudi woman who spoke about two words of English, despite the fact that
the official language of Aramco is English. I hate dealing with Saudi women who
work in these types of jobs because they rarely know the rules or have the
information you need, and they always, always, 100% of the time, have to ask
their male supervisor what to do. Why not put him at the fucking desk and be
done with it?
After a stumbling exchange, she said that such a letter could
be produced. I would need a copy of the iqama, driver’s license, Aramco ID,
and passport page of the driver, and a copy of my iqama, istmarrah, Aramco ID,
and car insurance card. (The iqama is the residence permit and the istmarrah is
the car registration.) She said that she could perhaps have the letter done by
Wednesday (in time for our planned weekend trip on Thursday) if I could get
these items to her by Tuesday morning. It was clear that she was not writing
the letter herself but simply passing all this stuff on to her supervisor.
I also tried to get her to clarify whether such a letter was
actually necessary. She just looked at me. I repeated my
question: is the letter necessary? She continued to look at me, tilted her head a bit, and
said, nec…e…ssary? Hmm, clearly I wasn’t going to get anywhere with this one.
Back in my office, I called PM who called her friend who
gathered all of his stuff, scanned it, and emailed it to me. I made a copy of
all my items then made the tortuous return journey to Al Midra the next
morning. I passed the scans over to the woman who passed them to her supervisor
standing right behind her. He looked them over then said that it would not
be possible to make such a letter. He then said, it wasn’t necessary to have such a letter within the Kingdom, that
my friend could drive my car anywhere in Saudi. I was rather stunned (why in
hell didn’t that stupid woman tell me this the day before) but I asked him,
okay, did I have to be in the car with my friend? He did that weird Arab/Asian
thing where he moved his head in a way that was neither yes nor no. I then
said, well, what about Bahrain? Can he drive my car in Bahrain? He said that he
didn’t know about that (which was probably the truest thing either of those two
had told me so far).
I called PM and told her this tale of woe, then said, I
think we should go for it, be adventurous, and take my car anyway. She was
convinced that we had to have a letter and said that she wasn’t going to risk
it, that she and her friend would go in his car. I called MG and said, you and
I are going to go in my new(ish), spacious, comfortable car. Come by at 7:30 on Thursday.
Crossing the causeway into Bahrain is a fairly convoluted
affair (you should not be surprised). There are five chokepoints in each direction at which you are required to
stop and hand over money or passport, or take a slip of paper to hand off to
another booth down the line. This sounds far more organized than it actually
is.
At some of these chokepoints there may only be 4 out of 20
booths open. Twenty lines of cars, most of which are driven by Saudis, mind
you, are gunning to get into whichever line they think is moving. They do not
hesitate to try and cross all twenty lanes to get from one side to the other. Booths
can randomly open and close for prayer breaks, tea breaks, smoke breaks, shift
changes (which are not predictable; if you complain about the wait, invariably
you are told that it is due to a shift change), breaks to kiss their friends
(Saudi men do a lot of kissing) and there is always a mad crush of cars trying
to zoom into a newly opened lane. If this wasn’t frustrating enough, as you
move from chokepoint to chokepoint, the booths that are open are randomly
positioned. At the first stop, two on the far left and two in the middle might
be open. At the next one, three on the far right might be open. Therefore your
path through this mess is highly nonlinear. You might be thinking to yourself, why don’t they simply open more
booths during easily predicted times of peak traffic? That would be far too
logical and imply that the Saudi government had an attitude of “customer
service.” (Ostensibly, the Bahraini government runs its side of the causeway
but since the ruling family is a puppet propped up by the Saudis, we really
only need to blame the Saudis.)
One of the chokepoints is literally designed to be a
chokepoint. Twenty lanes go down to one. There isn’t even a guy in the booth.
The only purpose is to restrict traffic. The entire causeway can be shut down
at this point. They in fact did this several times during the disturbances in
Bahrain of this year and last.
The second chokepoint is the one that PM was worried about.
At this checkpoint, cameras read your license plate and a machine inside the
booth prints a slip of paper with the car registration info on it. The guy in
the booth hands it over to you and down the line you hand it to
the guy in the booth at chokepoint five. PM predicted that MG and I would not
get through the second chokepoint. She called me several times that morning and
ended up saying, well, if you get through, I’ll buy you a glass of wine at
Trader Vic’s! MG piped up and said, she has to buy me one too because I’m the
driver!
To be honest, I was a bit worried too. Technically you are
still on the Saudi side of the causeway at chokepoint two (you don’t cross into
Bahrain officially until the last chokepoint) and if the guy at Government
Affairs in Al Midra was right (that’s the weak link in the chain, isn’t it)
then MG should be able to drive my car without any special letter or permission
at least up to Bahrain; what happened then was anybody’s guess. But rules do
change without any warning and PM knows her way around since she’s been here
for almost 20 years.
I had my phone up to my ear as soon as the guy in the booth
handed us a slip of paper with my istmarrah number and my name printed on it.
PM, I said, we’ll see you at Trader Vic’s! Have the wine chilled and waiting!